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P. & J. G. GEGAUP. HEMSTITGH'SEWING MACHINE.

NOE-92,088. PatentedO0t.19,'189 7 WITNESSES: N I INVENTORS! WQJZEZ S BY 4 ATTORNE 5 cu. mm'aumu, WASNINGYO\ u c (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Shet 2.

F. & J. G. GEGAUP.

HEMSTITGH SEWING MAGHINE. N0. 592,088. Patented Oct. 19, 1897.

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(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 P. &- J. G. GEGAUP.

HE-MSTITGH SEWING MACHINE.

, 'N0..592',O88. Patented Oct. 19,1897.

WITNESSES INVENTORS'.

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HEMSTITUH SEWING MACHINE.

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Patented Oct. 19,1897

WITNESSES:

INVENTORS Y g n mom Y m: NORRIS PEPERS co PP:OYO-L|TNO., WASHINGTON. n c.

U iTno STAT S ATENT Fries.

FRIEDRICH GEGAUF AND JOHAN eEoRe eEe-AUF, OF STEOKBORN, SWITZERLAND.

HEMSTlTCH-SEWlNG-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 592,088 dated October 19, 1897.

Application filedllovember 28, 1893. Serial No. 49 2 ,221. (No model.) Patented in Switzerland September 1, 1893, No. 7,281 in France September 16,1893, No| 232,867 in Belgium geptember 29, 1893, No. 106,585 in Germany September 30,1893,

No. 76,076, and in England October 4, 1893,No.18,565-

many, residing at Steckborn, in the Canton of Thurgau, Switzerland, have invented cer-' tain new and useful Improvements in Cross- Hemstitch Sewing-Machines, (for which we have obtained patents in Switzerland, No.

7,281, dated Septemberl, 1893; in Germany,

No. 76,076, dated September 30, 1893; f in France, No.232,867, datedSeptember 16,1893; in Belgium, No. 106,585, dated September 29, 1893, and in Great Britain, No. 18,565,'dated October 4, 1893;) and we do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact de'-' scription of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

Our said invention relates to improvements in apparatus or appliances to effect the crosshemstitch now so generally used in bordering or hemmin g handkerchiefs and for other purposes and refers especially to a novel arrangement in connection with the needles.

The nature of our invention will best be understood when described in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a front elevation of the head of a sewing-machine of the usual construction fitted with our improvements and partly in section. Fig. 2 is a plan of a portion of Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is an enlarged view of the needlebar and needles. Fig. at is a side view of Fig. 3. Figs. 5 and 6 are enlarged diagrams of the cross-hemstitch, Fig. 6 showing the stitch on the upper side, and Fig. 5 the stitch on the under side, of the'fabric. Fig. 7 is an end view of the machine, showing a band feed mechanism. Fig. 8 is a plan iew of a portion of Fig. 7. Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic View, on an exaggerated scale, illustrating the formation of the stitches.

Referring at present to Figs. 5 and 6, it will be seen that the stitch is at times thrown to one side. This is effected by causing the needle which carries the thread to swing to one side at the proper times and then to swing back again. The first of the two needles,

in dotted lines in Fig. 3. because one needle first forms the stitches which are employed according to our invention, is destinated to swing to the. right and the second to the left, or vice versa. The manner in which this is done is apparent from an examination of Figs. 1, 3, and i.

As shown in Figs. 1, 3, and l, the needlebar A is formed at its lower end with an arm or projection A. Fixed to the needle-bar A and its projection A are two vertical prickers B B, lying in line with each other in the direction of the feed of the fabric. The direction of the feeding motion of the fabric is the usual onethat is, at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the bed-plate of the machine. The space between the prickers B B is a multiple of the space covered by each ad-. Vance of the feed, so that the second or following pricker will exactly enter one of the holes which has already been made in the cloth by the first or leading pricker. The point of each pricker B is enlarged, as clearly shown in Fig. 3, and is formed with a small pocket 6 to receive the point of a needle D,

' which, as will be explained, swings laterally toward and away from the pricker B, as shown This is necessary on'one side of the hem, and the other needle afterwards on the other side of the hem. In the front pricker the needle D is on the right-hand side. In the other or following pricker' the needle is on the left-hand side, or vice versa.

The needles D are secured to the oscillating arms C, which are pivoted to the lower end of the needle-bar A, which latter has a lateral projection A, as clearly shown in Figs. 3 and 4. Disks on the arms 0 bear against similar disks a on the needle-bar and. on its projection and help to steady the arms 0. The arms 0 are mounted so as to cause the needles D to swing toward and away from the pricker B at the proper times. The said arms 0 are The number of teeth on the wheel F is onethird of the number of teeth 011 the wheel II, so that the wheel F revolves three times for each revolution of the wheel II.

The wheel II has a cam h formed on its side and this cam bears upon the end of a rod J, which passes along the top of the machine and is supported in bearings in the brackets G G. A spring 1' keeps the rod J against the cam h. As the cam h revolves the rod J moves to and fro. Another rod J lies parallel with the rod J and is reciprocated in opposite directions by a double lever M, pivoted at l and connected at m m to the respective rods J J, so that as the first rod J is moved in one direction the other rod J is moved in the opposite direction.

It will be seen that the ends of the rods J J are formed with eyes 2', which engage with the upper ends of the arms K K, the lower ends of the said arms being secured to the free ends of the arms 0. As the cam h revolves and it imparts a reciprocating motion to the rods J J, the arms 0 are thereby correspondingly moved and the needles D are caused to swing to the right and to the left of the prickers B, as already described. As the wheel II has three times the number of teeth of the wheel F, the needle-bar A makes three up and down motions, while the needles D make only one oscillation.

We use two shuttles in conjunction with the two prickers and needles. These shuttles are of the ordinary type and appearin dotted lines in Fig. 8. A band feed mechanism is shown in Fig. 7. It has two endless bands r r running over suitable pulleys r r actuated from a cam Q on the shaft of the wheel II bya pawl s, ratchet-wheel T, and intermediate mechanism.

If the stitches shown in Figs. 5 and 6 are considered in conjunction with the foregoing description of the prickers and needles, their formation will now be easily understood. The crossed lines in Figs. 5 and 6 represent the material of the handkerchief or other fabric which is being cross-hemmed. The first or leading pricker and needle form the stitches on the right. The other or following pricker and needle form the stitches 011 the left. The thread y is the shuttle-thread,while the thread 00 is the needle-thread.

First downward stroke of the needle-bar.- Looking at Fig. (3, the first downward stroke of the pricker B is taken when the needle D is lying close against the pricker, as in full lines in Fig. 3, so that only the point of the pricker pricks the fabric, but both the pricker and the needle widen and enlarge the hole. It will be understood that by pricking the fibers of the goods are not cut away, but only pressed aside. The shuttle-thread y locks the needle-thread 0c in the usual manner upon the upstroke of the pricker and needle and pulls the needle-thread a; at the place marked I. On the completion of the upstroke the needle is moved out from the side of the pricker into the position shown in dotted lines, Fig. 3, by the mechanism hereinbefore described.

Second downward stroke of the needle-bar. At this downstroke the needle D enters the material apart from the pricker and somewhat to the right, at the point marked II, whereby the side stitch Z-is formed. The needle-thread is again locked on the other side of the material by the shuttle-thread, and, on the rise of the pricker and needle, the needle is again moved up against the pricker.

Third downward stroke of the needle-bar.- At this downstroke the pricker and needle are again united in their descent, whereby the side stitch Z is formed. The shuttlcthread locks the needle-thread upon the upstroke of the pricker and needle and pulls the needle-thread at the place marked Ill.

On the completion of the third stroke any suitable and known feed mechanism, such as the band feed mechanism, Figs. 7 and 8, moves the material, which remained at rest during these three downstrokes of the ncedlebar, forward to an extent equaling the length of a stitch and lays the stitch which is marked Z across the fibers St. The stitch Z prevents the fibers of the material pushed aside by the pricker and needle from returning in their normal position, and binds them through the tension of the threads, which tension at the same time spreads the stitches, as shown. The operation is now repeated exactly as it has been described above. The feeding motion occurs only after three strokes have been made by the pricker and needle. The feed may be produced by any of the well known means actuated by the main shaft E.

The stitching operation, which we have described with reference to the leading pricker and needle in forming the stitches on the right side, is exactly imitated by the succeeding pricker and needle in forming the stitches on the left side, so that there is no necessity of repeatingthe description. The feed must be so adjusted that the succeeding pricker comes exactly over and enters a hole which has already been made by the first pricker.

In Fig. 9 letters B and D designate the leading pricker and needle, and B and D the second pricker and needle, said leading and second prickers being here shown three lengths of feed apart. The needle I) is here shown as being turned outwardly to the left, while the leading needle D lies against the pricker. In the actual operation of the machine the two needles are both either always turned inwardly or turned outwardly at the same time. To avoid the necessity of duplieating the View, we have shown the needles in the positions above pointed out. The shuttles areshown in dotted lines, they being of an ordinary type and working always on the same sides of the needles. The shuttles are also shown in Fig. 5, as well as the two elongated slots through which the needles pass. The needle D, as shown, has just commenced the formation of the sixth crossstitch, and the needle D at this time likewise lies against the pricker B and commences the third cross-stitch. It is, however, shown as turned outwardly for the formation of the second of the three stitches.

It will be noticed that the pricker is much larger in cross-section than the needle and that the points of the pricker and of the needle are as close together as possible, so that when the needle is thrown outwardly it will pierce the fabric directly opposite the hole made by the pricker.

As shown at P, the stitch I is formed on the first descent of the pricker. On the second descent, with the needle thrown out, the stitch II is formed, and on the third descent the stitch 3, close to I and partly crowding it in the direction of the feed, is formed. This stitch 3 is indicated by dotted lines. The stitch 3 is bodily carried into the position III by the forward feed movement of the fabric.

The usual tension of the threads holds the stitches in place, and thus the tension will crowd the stitch I into the upper corner of the respective hole, Fig. 9, made by the pricker, and the forward feed movement of the fabric in the same way crowds the stitch III from its position 3 into its corner.

We do not confine ourselves to the exact arrangement and details hereinbefore described and shown, as we might operate with one pricker and needle instead of two; but in this case the stitching would be to one side only.

What we claim as new is-- 1. In a cross-hemstitch sewing-machine, a feeding mechanism, a needle-bar, means for actuating the same to make three reciprocations between successive feeds,combined with a pricker fixed to the lower end of the needlebar and formed with a pocket for the reception of the needle; an arm pivoted to the lower end of the needle-bar and carrying the needle, operative means substantially as shown for holding the needle between the successive feeds against the pricker for the first stitch, away from the pricker for the next stitch and again against the pricker for a third stitch, substantially as described.

2. In a cross-hemstitch sewing-machine, a feeding mechanism, a needle-bar A, means for actuating the same to make three reciprocations between successive feeds, in combination with two prickers fixed to the lower end of the needle-bar in the line of the feed and provided with pockets for the needles arms pivoted to the lower endof the needlebar and carrying the needles,operative means, substantially as shown, for holding the needles between successive feeds against the prickers during the first stitch, away from the same during the secondstitch and against the same during the third stitch, substantially as specified.

3. In a cross-hemstitch sewing-machine, a needle-bar A, means for actuating the same to make three reciprocations between successive feeds, in combination with two prickers B B fixed to the lower end of the needle-bar in the line of the feed and provided with pockets 1) for the needles; arms 0 O pivoted to the lower end of the needle-bar and carrying needles D D, a pinion F on the drivingshaft E of the machine gearing into wheel H,

a cam h, rods J J and connecting-lever M the rods J J being connected to the corresponding arms K K attached to the arms 0 O and actuated by the cam h; two shuttles, and a suitable feed apparatus operated after each third stitch, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we affix our signatures in presence of two witnesses.

FRIEDRICH GEGAUF. JOHAN GEORG GEGAUF.

Witnesses HERMANN KIRCHHOFER, H. RABHART. 

